Published: 04/02/2010 00:00

A Black Country landlord goes to war— Part Three

OUR serialisation of the war diary of John McArdle, landlord of the Pipe Hall Hotel in Bilston, continues.

It is now 1942 and John is comfortably settled as the manager of a NAAFI in the Lebanese town of Broummana, a far cry from his native Black Country. Away from the front line John was able to enjoy the sights and sounds of the Middle East, making many friends among the locals and his army colleagues. His greatest hardship was the lack of news from his wife Ethel and the rest of his family; a familiar complaint of soldiers posted far from home. When news did come it was not good, with his father very ill and John could only hope and pray while he was so far away that all would be well ...

19th March, 1942. Stock taking yesterday which seemed to be OK, so was able to take a day off and despite the heavy rain visited Beirut, where it was quite miserable due to not wearing my greatcoat.

After lunch having safely negotiated the flooded streets, the drainage system here is very poor, I made my way to pictures and saw Norma Shearer in “Idiots Delight”. Tea afterwards at the ABC and then spent the rest of the evening in the cafe.

The area has now had four continuous days of heavy rain, particularly in the mountain regions, and it has done a considerable amount of damage.

Flocks of goats have been swept away by the swift overflowing streams.

Having gone for a walk to view the damage, I was caught once again in a downpour with no shelter.

22nd March, 1942. I had to give Mass a miss today as my clothes were still wet from my escapades of yesterday.

It is bitterly cold and it has rained and snowed (!) all day.

As there are no fireplaces out here one has to huddle around the stove, warm at the front, cold behind.

This evening another visit to the cinema, this time to see “She’s Dangerous”. When I have some spare moment I will check back in my memory to count the number of films I have seen so far.

24th March, 1942. The sun has got its hat on and it is much warmer so at the invitation of the Kannans I visited their estates and helped with the felling of some of the trees, which I enjoyed. The cones off these trees are full of small nuts, which are edible and delicious. These cones when stripped of the fruit are used as fuel as there are no coalmines in this country.

25th March, 1942. Captain Smith called today, his first visit since my employment here and expressed his satisfaction, which pleased me no end. A little bird has whispered that my third stripe is in the offing, I hope so as I have made every effort to succeed.

29th March, 1942. Palm Sunday.

A glorious sunny day and I went to Mass where I received a palm and later lunched with the Kannan family. I was able to take photographs of them with their two dogs; these photos will be added to those, which I took during my visit to the pretty little village of Beit Mery, yesterday.

Celebrations Birthday celebrations to which we have been invited were for a Martinique gentleman and together with his family and friends celebrated the event in their home where we were made very welcome.

It was very pleasing to learn that the takings in our canteen are mounting higher each week; last week in particular was the best since the establishment was opened.

Maybe my hard work will result in my third stripe.

31st March, 1942. To my great delight I received today my first letter from Ethel’s mother and father to which I promptly replied with my thanks.

On Maundy Thursday I attended Mass and then on Good Friday attended the Stations of the Cross.

3rd April, 1942. Easter Sunday.

Reveille at 0200hrs and together with the Kannan family attended the Easter service in the local Greek Orthodox church. The service was most interesting and very picturesque until a procession was formed and when this moved outside into the cold night air my interest waned. I then slipped quietly back to my NAAFI and after a much welcome cup of tea retired to bed. The ringing of the church bells awoke me from my slumbers and at 0800hrs, a much more comfortable time in my opinion; attended Mass and Communion.

The takings for today were a record and the institute looked grand with the floral display of the wild tulips on the tables and in the windows, the tulips I had picked during my evening walks. The overall display raised comments from the “boys” which was very pleasing.

My quiet half-hour in the evening with the Kannan family was disturbed by an awful brawl in the cafe between some of our troops.

Chairs and upturned tables were flying around and the Kannan brothers were doing their best to save the rest of the fixture and fittings. I promptly sent for the Military Police who soon ended a lamentable affair.

8th April, 1942. The photographs taken earlier during my recent sojourns have had mixed results, some good, some bad and some terrible. I have sorted them out and have despatched the good ones to Ethel and the folks at home. At the cinema tonight I saw a very good funny film called “The Amazing Mr Williams”.

9th April, 1942. My planned visit to Beirut on my half day off has been postponed as I have learned that the officer commanding was to be in Broummana and I did not wish to be absent should he visit our establishment.

During the following day, Captain Smith advised me that Colonel Tatlow, Officer Commanding NAAFI for the Middle East, would be in the district during the morning and to be ready for a visit. The staff and I made ourselves busy and had a good clean up, made a very good display in the show stands and the counter which was a good job for when he arrived, together with Major Tate from Jerusalem and Captain Smith, their inspection did not offer any complaints, only comments of a pleasing nature.

Letters 13th April, 1942. Writer’s cramp has set in today as I have written many letters to the family and friends back home in England. Mail from home is very slow in its despatch, maybe because we are in such a remote place in these glorious mountains.

14th April, 1942. After ensuring the staff are on their toes and keeping the “shop” in good order I spent the afternoon with a Private Joe Cox who comes from Dudley.

We sat in the cafe for about three-and-a-half hours and I learned that in civilian life he was a member of the Salvation Army. After talking of our religious beliefs I consider that with his views of life he should not be with the armed forces but serving with his own “army” where his beliefs and religious views would be better served.

17th April 1942. Dinner tonight was at the Bluebird Cafe, the occasion being the first meeting of the “Swear Club”. Having arranged the tables and the seating plan I had Major Dewhurst as a companion. A jolly time was had by one and all. I was formally invited to be the president of the club, which I was pleased to accept.

18th April, 1942. Together with two members of my staff, Saba and Michael, we visited Beirut where we prepared for the sergeants’ mess dinner dance at the Cinema Militaire.

Whilst there I went to the Garrison Restaurant in the Place de Canons where I met and chatted to some of the boys with whom I had travelled from England and who were stationed and working here.

19th April, 1942. Private Joe Cox met me again this morning and we both went to Mass.

He said that he had enjoyed it, and found it most interesting.

After he left I stayed at the church for the Legion of Mary meeting.

20th April, 1942. A meeting was held at the Swear Club and a decision was made to rename it. The club is now to be known as the HQ Social Club and fortunately my interest in it will assist in the increase in business and increase the takings.

During this weekend, a show was given by a group of South Africans, five girls and seven men. Their show was called “The Crazy Gang” and was one of the best seen in this area since our arrival. I have written to Ethel to tell her all about it.

26th April, 1942. After attending Mass this Sunday morning I saw all the streets decorated with garlands of flowers and flags, hanging from balconies across the narrow streets, making a very pretty and decorative site.

The arrival later, of the President of the Lebanese Republic is the reason for this display and I shall be most interested to witness the event this afternoon and to hear the local “band” playing traditional airs.

First to arrive this afternoon was the Commanding Officer of Headquarters 9th Army to whom the assembled squad of Gendarmerie presented arms while the National Anthem was played. There was a tremendous burst of cheering and applause and the showering down of hundreds of rose petals on to the cars as the president and his entourage alighted from their cars. More saluting and presenting arms and anthems to which we all stood to attention like good soldiers.

The party then entered the bedecked grounds of the orphanage for the speeches of welcome, for the most part delivered in the singsong Arabic tones, paying homage from the people of Broummana to the president. Other tributes were paid in English and French; bouquets of flowers were presented by the children of the orphanage under the watchful eyes of the Sisters of St Vincent de Paul. I took my leave from this distinguished gathering and prepared for my proposed visit to Damascus with Joe Cox and members of my staff.

Damascus 27th April, 1942. Together with Saba and George of my staff our party set off early this morning at 0730hrs for our visit to Damascus. The journey through the mountains took three hours overall, a trip which must be taken to appreciate the beauty of the area. Snow still lay in parts as we passed through the higher levels.

En route we passed plenty of Forces France Libre and also the Camel Corp who looked very smart in their turnout.

We crossed the border into Syria where our civilian conveyance was stopped and carefully searched by the Gendarmerie before we were allowed to proceed. It was 1030hrs when we arrived at Damascus where our first activity was to visit the famous mosque, which enshrines the headof John the Baptist.

This is a wonderful old building where, at the entrance our shoes were removed and replaced with slipper type footwear as the infidel (a Christian) is not allowed to desecrate the precincts by walking around in his own footwear. The floor is covered wall to wall with the local elaborate carpeting, which our guide described with great pride. One large example of the carpet would have covered the lounge of the Pipe Hall Hotel at home very nicely and would have only cost about £800 sterling. Here one sees the devout Moslem performing his ablutions before entering the mosque, others, sitting Eastern fashion, reading the Koran.

Bazaars Having left the mosque we toured the bazaars which are indeed oriental in form where I purchased some cushion covers, of a very fine golden coloured material, which I will send home to Ethel.

On to Saladin’s tomb, and then to the street called Straight, mentioned by St Paul when writing of his conversion to Christianity.

We then proceeded by car to view the remains of the walls of this ancient city and photographed the place where St Paul was reputed to have been lowered in a basket when his life was threatened.

This is truly an old and historic place indeed and I am pleased to have visited it, albeit for a short time.

After lunch at the garrison NAAFI we proceeded through the Bekaa Valley to Baalbek, famous for its temple ruins, passing en route through Rayak and Abla and also passing, with regret the Ksara Monastery, famous for its fine wines and brandy. The country here is grand and I shall not forget the magnificent scenery. This part of our journey has taken about two-anda- half hours and at our next stop we visited the local ruins.

After viewing the stone and marble pillars we were amazed at their size, the large unbroken slabs of stone were as large as a cottage at home, however they were placed in position is difficult to comprehend.

Recollection The temples we visited were dedicated to Bacchus, Venus and Jupiter. Later, Saba and George, who had taken the opportunity to visit the local bars, rejoined us and we began our return journey, arriving back at Broummana after the long trip at 2030hrs. Tired after this long journey, but, with the memory of a lovely day spent with friends, which I have recorded to my diary for future recollection.

28th April, 1942. Having received several letters including one from Durban, South Africa, I settled down to respond to them all and my letter to Ethel contains photographs of my recent journeys.

I am also busy at the canteen as my cook has The country here is grand and I shall not forget the magnificent scenery. returned to his home in Jerusalem to take care of his sick wife. His early return will be pleasing, as he is a very good cook and it will also mean that his wife is much better in health.

Mass A very good night last night in the canteen, as the takings are the best so far.

3rd May, 1942. I attended Mass this morning and in the afternoon I was one of hundreds who attended the Army Cup Final at the Beirut American University between the 9th Army and the Royal Artillery Gunners, the Army winning 5-3 after extra time. It was a grand game and I got so excited I shouted myself hoarse, for the army of course.

6th April, 1942. Captain Smith visited the canteen today and advised me that he had recommended me for my third stripe, which would thus put me in charge of the two canteens; Ethel will be pleased when she hears of this.

14th May, 1942. Sergeant Cutyar has been knocked over by a car while taking the money to the bank in Beirut; he will be in hospital for some time. Sorry to hear of this, I hope he will have a speedy recovery.

Captain Smith has now put me in charge after taking stock and I should be expecting the inspectors soon, a routine that takes place each time an establishment has a change of management.

17th May, 1942. Quite an eventful day today. I have put up my third stripe and have had my leg pulled by the customers.

Tombola, a board type game with numbers called out, is becoming quite popular here and I won £3. 10d when I was the first to have covered all the numbers, when called out, on my card.

The inspectors have finished but have left a bit of a mess after checking the stock and moving things around.

Having now taken over and in my new role I am now responsible for the books and the accounts and as it has been some time since my introduction to the system I have to do some revision on it.

21st May, 1942. I have forgotten to mention that the Duke of Gloucester passed through the area the other day and together with my staff saw him pass by.

This canteen has now opened a new sub bar No 3 especially for the Royal Air Force personnel at the Grand Hotel and it is very busy. The hotel is about three miles away and as transport is not always available I frequently walk the journey which is pleasurable.

On a visit to Beirut recently I saw the film “Little Nellie Kelly” at the Roxy Cinema, which I enjoyed.

Commenced the half-yearly stocktaking today and finished at 0130hrs on Sunday morning.

Up again at 0700hrs to finish the stock sheets, then, as it was such a lovely morning walked down to Beit Mery and did the stocktaking at the sub bar and completed all the books and paperwork.

8th June, 1942. The inspectors are here again to check my stocktaking records and my small office seems quite full with them all in. They finished on Wednesday and everything seems to be satisfactory.

A burglary took place at the top canteen during the late Monday evening and a large quantity of cigarettes was stolen, plus one toilet roll, which, in the first instance caused me some anger but in the second caused me some amusement.

In Mother’s recent letters she had advised me of Dad’s illness and in her letter received today she reported that he had been moved from the hospital. She also sent me a copy of the newspaper report about the Coach and Horses, which I shall put into my scrapbook, my new hobby.

11th June, 1942. I have taken a trip to Beirut via Beit Mery for a few hours off. At Beit Mery in one of the bazaars I purchased for myself some underclothes and a silver cigarette case for Ethel. In the afternoon I went to the pictures and after tea walked around the native quarters which I found very interesting although very hot in the close confines of the narrow streets.

13th June, 1942. I was sorry to learn that Tom Walker is leaving here shortly; this will mean that I will have to make visits to the bank at Beirut more frequently. It is quite a palaver when putting monies into the local bank. Firstly the cash is handed to a cashier who checks it and signs the book. You then have to take the book to two other cashiers who then send you back to the first counter where the book is further checked by another clerk.

Bank You then have to sit and wait while the book is despatched to the holy of holies for a final signature by the director of the bank. That is how they do it at the Banque de Syria et du Libyan.

Mother’s letter has described Dad’s illness; he must be very ill this time, it is sad that I cannot be there to support the family; I hope he pulls through.

18th June, 1942. I found time to see the film “Balalaika” at the cinema in Beirut, which I enjoyed. Captain Smith has ordered the closure of the Beit Mery canteen so I have been busy removing the stock and furniture down to Broummana.

9th July, 1942. A busy few days with little time to write up my diary but I did find time to visit the New Zealand Hospital where two of the fellows with whom I travelled here are receiving attention. On then to the EFI sergeants’ mess and had a good meeting followed by a visit to a cabaret show in the afternoon, returning to Broummana at 2130hrs.

I thus had time to write to Ethel enclosing some of the latest snaps, hoping they will arrive for our wedding anniversary.

Year Today is the anniversary of my first year with the NAAFI organisation, how time flies.

14th July, 1942. Upon arriving at the bank in Beirut I was surprised to find it closed. The reason, it was Fete National Day in the Lebanon and the streets were gaily bedecked for the occasion. The Allies’ flags were prominent especially the Forces Libre. By previous arrangement I met Tom Walker at the district office and took him to St Louis Cathedral where we celebrated solemn High Mass, called on this day, Consular Mass. It was a magnificent sight in the church; the lighting effect added a dignity to this imposing ceremony.

The aged Bishop was present in the sanctuary and among the distinguished guests, beside Tom and myself, were President Naccache, Chief Minister of the Lebanon, General Sir Edward Spears, HM Minister out here, and other French and British Officers and representatives of the Diplomatic Corps.

At the conclusion of the service a procession was formed and the aforementioned dignitaries, headed by His Grace bestowing his blessing upon the waiting throng.One can always be forgiven for national pride but our boys had them all licked for their smart turnout. My friend Tom was deeply moved by the ceremony and said that it was the grandest parade he had ever seen. It was for me too, since my brother Frank was ordained into the priesthood at Southwark Cathedral some two years ago.

After this eventful afternoon we visited the French Bar to celebrate the Fall of the Bastille, finally returning to Broummana.

15th July, 1942. An interesting evening at the inaugural meeting of the HQ Social Club, where I was appointed Hon. Treasurer and made a short speech. The Jumbo’s band entertained and with 80 members enrolling it made a good start. My first duty was to organise a darts and crib tournament.

16th July, 1942. Upon waking this morning was surprised to learn that all the shops and cafes etc in Syria and Lebanon were closed today as a form of protest against the excessive price charged for flour. Here in this country every one or nearly every one makes their own bread, especially the poorer classes. In Beirut the NAAFI was closed during the day as the rioters were stoning the shops. It worsened during the afternoon and the city was put out of bounds to all British personnel.

Armoured cars patrolled the streets, several tramcars were overturned and a number of people were killed. It was pleasing when the people up here cheered the English for their support, waving flags which always seem to be on hand on these occasions.

17th July, 1942. Things are back to normal at Broummana but Beirut has not calmed down. They love their demonstrations, which means processions through the streets with banners and signs.

If this isn’t a good enough excuse for a day off, I don’t know what is.

19th July, 1942. Mass this morning and afterwards I took eleven other ranks to the village of Roummy for afternoon tea at an English lady’s home.

The lady is a Quaker and a friend of the Cadbury family back home. A very enjoyable occasion, much appreciated by the lads. I chatted to a fellow who hails from Wednesfield; he knew the Globe and the Pipe Hall quite well.

26th July, 1942. Letters from Mother and brother Frank who tell me that Dad is not very good and he has been transferred to a hospital near King’s Norton. I hope he will recover soon.

Inspectors The inspectors have finished and Lt. Sawyer has advised me of a bad stock result in all the bars so I asked for an immediate retake, as this would be my first bad one while with NAAFI.

The retake was not very satisfactory so I went around all my 12 staff and after my own investigation sacked three of them, one of whom signed a confession to the effect that he had been stealing goods and food during my absence.

8th August, 1942. The last few days have been busy with more stock taking. A letter from Ethel described that she is down in the dumps, poor kid. It must be rough on her really, having to run the Pipe Hall and sort out any staff or catering problems and worrying about my dad. I hope she will keep her chin up and I have written to her, to that effect.

Continues next week